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Use of Concealing Cosmetics to Reduce the Visibility of
Topical Skin Afflictions for Enhanced Quality of Life

Barbara A. Green, Alicia E. Beer, Brenda L. Edison.

NeoStrata Company, Inc., Princeton, NJ, USA

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Introduction
Many dermatological conditions have long lasting negative psychological and social ramifications due to the highly visible nature of these conditions.  Some conditions, including psoriasis, have several treatment modalities available; however, complete, long-term resolution rarely occurs leading to enduring emotional stress and quality of life issues.1  Other conditions, including port-wine stains, purpura, and unwanted tattoos, can frequently be removed using laser surgery procedures that often require multiple treatments over a long period of time.  During the treatment process there is usually a gradual fading of the condition, which many times causes a mottled and uneven appearance and may be a cause of embarrassment and feelings of self-consciousness.  There are other conditions such as vitiligo that have few therapeutic options and thus require the use of a corrective cosmetic to minimize the visibility of the condition.

A new corrective cosmetic was developed to provide: (1) full opacity and long lasting coverage to conceal skin imperfections, (2) an easy to use product system with a wide range of natural skin tones for enhanced compliance, (3) skin benefit ingredients including the polyhydroxy acid (PHA) gluconolactone to moisturize, and (4) water-resistant broad spectrum sunscreens to protect the skin from UV damage.  Photographs taken of various skin conditions including plaque psoriasis, purpura, port-wine stains and tattoos indicate that these corrective cosmetics can be used to minimize the visibility of skin conditions and may therefore improve quality of life.

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Objective
The objective of this poster is to demonstrate the use of concealing cosmetics in reducing the appearance of highly visible skin conditions to enhance quality of life.
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Test Products
  1. Coverblend by Exuviance Concealing Treatment Makeup, SPF 20
  2. Coverblend by Exuviance Corrective Leg & Body Makeup, SPF 18
  3. Coverblend by Exuviance Anti-Aging Finishing Powder

Products 1 and 2 are highly pigmented formulations (14 shade variations) with long-wearing, water-resistant characteristics that were developed to conceal major and minor skin imperfections with a natural appearance.  Products contain UVA/UVB sunscreens to protect the skin against UV and the polyhydroxy acid (PHA), gluconolactone (4%), to smooth, condition and hydrate the skin2-4. The concealing treatment makeup is also non-comedogenic and non-irritating. Product 3 may be applied after makeup application as needed to reduce light reflectance and provide an enhanced matte finish.

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Method
The corrective cosmetics were applied to cleansed skin and allowed to air dry. Layering of the makeup was performed as needed to enhance opacity and achieve full coverage. The finishing powder was applied when needed. Photographs were taken under normal overhead lighting with a flash using either:
  1. A 35mm camera: Minolta X-700
  2. Digital camera: Sony Digital Mavica
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Results
Condition: Chronic Plaque Psoriasis
Before After
Large psoriatic lesion located on the outer forearm characterized by erythema, scaling and plaque elevation. Lesion visibility markedly reduced with a natural appearance following application of concealing cosmetics.
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Before After
Small psoriatic lesion on the wrist. Following application of concealing cosmetics.
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Condition: Pigmentation Irregularity
Before After
Café au lait on the face of a young boy. After application of the concealing cosmetics.  Subject reports significant improvement in quality of life, particularly in grade school activities.
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Condition: Skin Discoloration
Before After
Facial port-wine stain. Full coverage with the concealing cosmetics.
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Condition: Skin Discoloration
Before After
Facial purpura immediately following treatment with pulsed dye laser. After application of the concealing treatment makeup; subject needed to give a presentation the next day.
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Before After
Scar on the wrist. Concealed with the corrective cosmetics.
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Before After
Varicose veins on the leg. Concealed with the Leg & Body Makeup to provide a uniform appearance.
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Before After
Woman with Sturge Weber Syndrome has both skin discoloration and a rough texture. Complete coverage of skin discoloration with a smoother appearance.
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Condition: Tattoo
Before After
Darkly pigmented tattoo with multiple colors. Tattoo pigmentation is fully concealed.
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Before After
Ankle tattoo. Complete coverage with the corrective cosmetic prior to attending a wedding.
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Conclusion
The use of corrective cosmetics is an effective way to reduce the visibility of dermatological conditions when used: (1) post-procedurally to conceal redness, (2) during a multi-step treatment process to cover the altered skin, (3) to hide skin imperfections periodically for special events, or (4) as the sole means of 'treatment' for conditions that lack therapeutic options. Additionally, these easy-to-use, non-irritating corrective cosmetics provide skin benefits through broad-spectrum UV coverage, and smoothing and moisturizing effects with gluconolactone (PHA). These features combine to enhance the quality of life of individuals with visible skin afflictions.
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References
  1. Krueger G, Koo J, Lebwohl M, Menter A, Stern RS, Rolstad T. The impact of psoriasis on quality of life. Arch Dermatol. 2001;137:280-284.
  2. Berardesca E, Distante F, Vignoli GP, Oresajo C, Green B. Alpha hydroxy acids modulate stratum corneum barrier function. Br. J. Dermatol 1997;137:934-8.
  3. Bergfeld WF, Remzi BK, Green B, Patel P, Ravas R: An Evaluation of the Gluconolactone Sensitive Skin Care Products. Amer Acad of Derm Poster Exhibit: Orlando, February, 1998.
  4. Green B, Tseng C, Wildnauer R, Herndon J, Rizer, R. Safety and Efficacy of a Gluconolactone (Polyhydroxy acid) Containing Regimen on Sensitive Skin and Photodamage Following Controlled Consumer Use. AmerAcad of Derm Poster Exhibit: New Orleans, March, 1999.
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Test Products
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